The Most Useful Knots of Each Type

If you only have time to learn one knot of each type, pick the first one. If you only want to learn one knot, learn the Adjustable Grip Hitch.

Bends

• Alpine Butterfly Bend Strong, secure, easy to tie. Jams under heavy load.
• Zeppelin Bend Strong, easy to tie. Doesn't jam as much as the Alpine Butterfly, but slightly less secure.
• Reever Knot (Bend) Extremely secure, but weaker than the Alpine Butterfly or Zeppelin bends. Attractive appearance.
• Adjustable Grip Hitch (pair, opposed) Tying two AGHs in a similar manner to a fisherman's knot allows for a reasonably strong and secure bend.

Fixed Loops

• Alpine Butterfly Loop Can be tied with the end or in the bight. Strong and secure. Jams under heavy load.
• Zeppelin Loop Can be tied only with the end. Strong and secure. Doesn't jam as much as the Alpine Butterfly
• Reever Loop Properties untested. Likely similar to bend variant.

Hitches

• Adjustable Grip Hitch Slide-and-grip hitch. Easy to learn. Can form a semi-fixed loop, be used as a bend, and can be used as a prusik if another fixed loop is made to clip in.
• Constrictor Knot Secure binding hitch
• Midshipman's Hitch Similar to Adjustable Grip Hitch, but can be tied under tension. ABOK #1855

Nooses

"Noose" is a term for any loop tightens under load and can be loosened without the load. They're most useful as hitches.

• Running Alpine Butterfly
• Running Zeppelin Loop
• Arbor Knot

Stoppers

• Ashley's Stopper Knot Bulky, but can be difficult to remember how to tie.
• Barrel Knot Smaller than Ashley's, but easier to learn.